Chanel y las Bordadoras Rusas 2

En el otoño del 1921 Maria Pavlovna conoció a Chanel por primera véz. Chanel ya teniá un reputación  sólida y una clientela, Chanel era mád negociante que costurera y a pesar  de esto Chanel creó la nueva imagen de la mujer de los años 20s. Chanel, desafiando a su más feroz rival : Paul Poiret, democratizó la moda y transformó el vestuario de la mujer en Paris.

 

Maria Pavlovna decidió probar suerte con Chanel ya que su hermano teniá un relación con Chanel y esta estaba interesada en bordados, Chanel importabas bordados para incorporar los detalles a las blusas de seda. Al momento de la entrevista, Chanel estaba discutiendo con su tejedora permanente, Madame  Bataille, el ego de Chanel consideraba que para todo  era un honor bordar para ella sin importar que el precio era el más bajo. Madame Batille le estaba pidiendo a Chanel 600 francos para tejer una blusa, a lo que Maria Pavlonva se ofreció a bordarla por 150 francos, a lo que Chanel acedió contenta aunque su temor era que Maria Pavlovna no era familair con la máquina bordadora, así que Maria le prometió a Chanel que compraría una.

 

Después de tres meses, Maria se presentó orgullosa y contenta en la Casa Chanel con su primera blusa bordada a máquina por la que ella pidió 450 francos. Este fué el primer trabajo de la Casa Kitmir del Bordado con la Casa Chanel. La historia del nombre de  la casa Kitmir era que un amigo de la duquesa en Paris era el ex-embajdor ruso en Washington, el cual tenia tres perros y uno de ella se llamaba Kitmir en honor al perro de la mitología Persa : Kitmir.

 

Al principio de Enero del 1921, Chanel empezó a trabajar en su collección de Primavera, la primera orden consistía en blusas, túnicas, y abrigos. Maria bordó differentes túnicas con hilo gris y motivos rojos. La cas Kitmir fué creada para Chanel y Maria estaba muy orgullosa de su labor. Maria y Gabrielle se reunían  a diario , Chanel siempre se vestía muy simple consistíendo en un jacket, un suéter oscuro y una falda oscura, el atuendo que solo se cambiaba cuando Chanel salía a reunirse con otras personas.  Chanel trabajaba a menudo en presencia de Maria, cortando, recortando, embelleciendo, ajustando, la palabras de Chanel era la ley para su empleados, Chanel tomaba decisiones en un abrir y cerrar de ojos, inspeccionaba la collección una sola véz, se aseguraba que lo que ella creaciones de ella estaban en armonía con el cuerpo, el comfort y el prestigio de su sello.

 

Cuando el dia en que los diseño iban a ser presentados a los compradores extranjeros en la Casa Chanel, Maria no puso contener sus lagrimas cuandos ella pudo ver sus trabajos de bordados en las modelos, algunas de ellas eran rusas. El defile duró tres horas y los compradores competían por esas piezas ; el primer triunfo de Kitmir and Maria Plavlovna ganaba dinero con su labor, no siendo un duquesa, y jamas mencionaba su titulo, pero Chanel le enseño a Maria no vestirse como una refugiada y que en vez de recibir lastima, la gente la van a esquivar, para hacer negocio Chanel le sugirió que maria debia lucir mejor, Maria empezó a maquillarse, vestirse mejor, rebajar de peso. La mismo Chanel le cortó el pelo a Maria que siempre llevaba el pelo en un moño. La influencia de Chanel en Mari no paró ahí, la tenacidad y la inteligencia de Chanel se manifestó en Maria, que le faltaba dureza para los negocios, Chanel le adviertió que tenía que olvidarse de la caridad ya que no podía se mezclada con el negocio. Chanel insistía que la colección de bordados debía ser cambiada cada temporada.

 

En 1923 cuando muchas de las bordadoras ruse dejaron la casa Kitmir y empezaron sus propias casas de bordados con las técnicas secretas de la casa Kitmir, bordadores profesionales frances fueron agregado a la cas Kitmir.

 

El el 1928, el bordado empezó a pasar de moda, la gente tenía más interes en los tejidos con detalles impresos, el Art Deco estaba en sus  últimos días, y la caída de la Bolsa de Valores,  Maria estaba decidida a rehacer la arruinada cas Kitmir hasta que esta fué tragada por la casa de bordados Fritel & Hurel, Maria pudo obtener los derechos del nombre Kitmir y muchas de  las bordadoras rusas que una véz trabajaron con ella, ahora trabajaban para los nuevos dueños.

 

 

4,054 thoughts on “Chanel y las Bordadoras Rusas 2

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